{"id":500,"date":"2013-04-15T21:47:04","date_gmt":"2013-04-15T21:47:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/harpa.blogg.is\/2013-04-15\/utprjonadir-silkijakkar-fra-sautjandu-old\/"},"modified":"2013-11-19T09:47:17","modified_gmt":"2013-11-19T09:47:17","slug":"utprjonadir-silkijakkar-fra-sautjandu-old","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harpahreins.com\/blogg\/2013\/04\/15\/utprjonadir-silkijakkar-fra-sautjandu-old\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00datprj\u00f3na\u00f0ir silkijakkar fr\u00e1 sautj\u00e1ndu \u00f6ld"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"SilkijakkiTalsvert hefur var\u00f0veist af skrautlegum \u00fatprj\u00f3nu\u00f0um j\u00f6kkum\/treyjum fr\u00e1 17. \u00f6ld og m\u00e1 sj\u00e1 \u00fe\u00e1 \u00e1 s\u00f6fnum \u00ed Evr\u00f3pu og Amer\u00edku. \u00deeir eru munsturprj\u00f3na\u00f0ir \u00far silki \u00ed tveimur litum e\u00f0a silki og gull- e\u00f0a silfur\u00fer\u00e6\u00f0i. Stundum eru brug\u00f0nar lykkjur nota\u00f0ar til a\u00f0 stykki\u00f0 l\u00edkist damask-vefna\u00f0i (br\u00f3ka\u00f0i-vefna\u00f0i) en einnig til a\u00f0 draga enn frekar fram \u00fatprj\u00f3na\u00f0a munstri\u00f0. (Til eru margar silkiprj\u00f3na\u00f0ir treyjur me\u00f0 eing\u00f6ngu einlitu \u00fatprj\u00f3ni, svok\u00f6llu\u00f0u damaskprj\u00f3ni, en \u00fe\u00e6r eru ekki til umr\u00e6\u00f0u \u00ed \u00feessari f\u00e6rslu. Stundum var sauma\u00f0 \u00fat \u00ed damaskprj\u00f3nu\u00f0u treyjurnar.) <\/font><\/p>\n

Mynstrin eru yfirleitt bl\u00f3mamynstur einhvers konar. \u00deau eru eftirl\u00edkingar af munstrum ofinna silkid\u00faka\/silkikl\u00e6\u00f0is fr\u00e1 sama t\u00edma, \u00fe.e. \u00e1 sautj\u00e1ndu \u00f6ld. Silki\u00fer\u00e1\u00f0urinn sem prj\u00f3na\u00f0 var \u00far var afar f\u00ednger\u00f0ur og prj\u00f3narnir hlj\u00f3ta a\u00f0 hafa l\u00edkst n\u00fat\u00edmat\u00edtuprj\u00f3num a\u00f0 gildleika. <\/font><\/p>\n

Silkitreyjurnar skrautlegu eru ekki prj\u00f3na\u00f0ar \u00ed hring heldur sauma\u00f0ir saman \u00far ferhyrndum stykkjum, sem hefur gefi\u00f0 \u00feeirri hugmynd undir f\u00f3tinn a\u00f0 efnivi\u00f0urinn (stykkin) hafi veri\u00f0 prj\u00f3na\u00f0ur \u00ed prj\u00f3nav\u00e9l. En engar traustar heimildir eru fyrir \u00fev\u00ed a\u00f0 prj\u00f3nav\u00e9lar (knitting frames) sem g\u00e1tu prj\u00f3na\u00f0 brug\u00f0nar lykkjur hafi veri\u00f0 uppfundnar \u00feegar \u00feessir jakkar voru prj\u00f3na\u00f0ir. (Kr\u00e6kja \u00ed st\u00f3ra mynd af rau\u00f0u silkitreyjunni er ne\u00f0ar \u00ed f\u00e6rslunni.)<\/font><\/p>\n

S\u00e6nskar heimildir nefna a\u00f0 \u00e1ri\u00f0 1685 hafi veri\u00f0 fluttir inn 436 prj\u00f3na\u00f0ir silkijakkar, \u00fdmist \u00fatsauma\u00f0ir e\u00f0a ekki, \u00fe\u00e1 v\u00e6ntanlega \u00fdmist damaskprj\u00f3na\u00f0ir eing\u00f6ngu e\u00f0a \u00fatprj\u00f3na\u00f0ar me\u00f0 mislitu garni. \u00cd d\u00f6nskum v\u00f6rulistum fr\u00e1 17. \u00f6ld eru taldar upp \u201en\u00e1tttreyjur\u201c (or\u00f0i\u00f0 var nota\u00f0 um svona jakka, auk \u00feess sem \u00fea\u00f0 merkti einlita damaskprj\u00f3na\u00f0a jakka \u00far silki e\u00f0a ull) \u00far silki, sumar \u201ebaldyrede\u201c, \u00fe.e.a. \u00fatsauma\u00f0ar me\u00f0 gull- e\u00f0a silfur\u00fer\u00e6\u00f0i. M\u00e1 sem d\u00e6mi nefna skr\u00e1 yfir lager kaupmannsins Eriks J\u00f8rgensen \u00ed Odense \u00e1ri\u00f0 1644:<\/font>
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6 stykker silche Nattr\u00f8yer med s\u00f8lff och guld bardyret a 14 rdl.<\/font>
\n6 stykker dito med flos a 19 rdl.<\/font>
\n3 stykker store Mands Nattr\u00f8yer a 23 rdl.<\/font>
\n1 Gr\u00f8n silche Nattr\u00f8ye med s\u00f8lff och guld uflosset … 33 rdl.<\/font>
\n( \u00d8stergaard, Else. 1984)<\/font><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u00deegar Leonora Christina<\/a> var handtekin \u00ed London og f\u00e6r\u00f0 \u00ed Bl\u00e1turn (fangelsi) \u00ed Kaupmannah\u00f6fn, \u00e1ri\u00f0 1663, var h\u00fan kl\u00e6dd \u00ed silkiprj\u00f3na\u00f0a \u201en\u00e1tttreyju”. Eigur hennar voru teknar en seinna f\u00e9kk h\u00fan til baka \u201etvende Nattr\u00f8jer, en silkebunden og den anden af hvidnuppet T\u00f8j …\u201c Sagt var a\u00f0 Leonora Christina kl\u00e6ddist samkv\u00e6mt franskri t\u00edsku og m\u00e1 af \u00feessari heimild r\u00e1\u00f0a a\u00f0 silkiprj\u00f3na\u00f0ar treyjur hafi enn veri\u00f0 h\u00e1t\u00edska seint \u00e1 17. \u00f6ld, raunar voru svona treyjur\/jakkar \u00e1fram nota\u00f0ar talsvert fram \u00e1 18. \u00f6ld. Yfirleitt er tali\u00f0 a\u00f0 Danir hafi flutt inn silkitreyjur\/silkijakka, jafn damaskprj\u00f3na\u00f0a sem \u00fatprj\u00f3na\u00f0a \u00ed lit, fr\u00e1 Englandi, jafnvel Skotlandi. Enskum\u00e6landi h\u00f6fundar kalla svona treyjur oft \u00edtalska e\u00f0a fl\u00f3rent\u00ednska jakka. Sj\u00e1lfsagt eru \u00feessar skrautlegu treyjur ekki upprunnar af einni r\u00f3t heldur prj\u00f3na\u00f0ir h\u00e9r og \u00fear \u00ed Evr\u00f3pu \u00fear sem listprj\u00f3n haf\u00f0i n\u00e1\u00f0 h\u00e6stu h\u00e6\u00f0um. Um \u00feetta er raunar ekkert vita\u00f0 me\u00f0 vissu.<\/font><\/p>\n

Tali\u00f0 er a\u00f0 \u00fatprj\u00f3nu\u00f0u silkitreyjurnar hafi tilheyrt \u00f3formlegum kl\u00e6\u00f0na\u00f0i a\u00f0alsmanna (af b\u00e1\u00f0um kynjum) og \u00feess vegna sj\u00e1ist \u00feeirra engin merki \u00e1 17. og 18. aldar m\u00e1lverkum; f\u00f3lk stillti s\u00e9r nefnilega upp \u00ed sparif\u00f6tunum. Margt bendir og til \u00feess a\u00f0 treyjurnar hafi veri\u00f0 bornar innan undir j\u00f6kkum e\u00f0a upphlut.<\/font>
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\"Munstur<\/a>\"Prj\u00f3na\u00f0ur\u00cd safni Viktor\u00edu og Alberts \u00ed London eru nokkrir svona jakkar (treyjur), allir fremur litlir (brj\u00f3stv\u00eddd er yfirleitt um 73 cm, s\u00edddin er um 55 cm). Jakkinn sem s\u00e9st h\u00e9r er 57 cm langur, prj\u00f3na\u00f0ur \u00far gr\u00e6num silki\u00fer\u00e6\u00f0i og gull\u00fer\u00e6\u00f0i (gullh\u00fa\u00f0u\u00f0um silki\u00fer\u00e6\u00f0i). Prj\u00f3nafesta er 6 lykkjur \u00e1 sentimetra. Ne\u00f0st \u00e1 bol og ermar er prj\u00f3na\u00f0ur bor\u00f0i me\u00f0 einf\u00f6ldu einlitu munstri me\u00f0 brug\u00f0num lykkjum. L\u00edklega var meiningin a\u00f0 l\u00edkja eftir damaskvefna\u00f0i. Jakkinn er sauma\u00f0ur saman og skoti\u00f0 inn geirum \u00e1 hli\u00f0um ne\u00f0st til a\u00f0 auka v\u00edddina. Tali\u00f0 er a\u00f0 geirarnir, sem eru ekki prj\u00f3na\u00f0ir, s\u00e9u s\u00ed\u00f0ari t\u00edma vi\u00f0b\u00f3t til a\u00f0 tolla \u00ed t\u00edskunni. Jakkann m\u00e1 sko\u00f0a vel \u00e1 s\u00ed\u00f0u The Victoria and Albert Museum<\/a>.\u00a0 Til h\u00e6gri er teikning af munstrinu ef einhvern skyldi langa til a\u00f0 prj\u00f3na s\u00e9r svona jakka \ud83d\ude42\u00a0 S\u00e9 smellt \u00e1 munstri\u00f0 opnast pdf-skjal.<\/font>
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Fleiri d\u00e6mi um prj\u00f3na\u00f0a silkijakka\/silkitreyjur (litlu myndirnar kr\u00e6kja \u00ed st\u00f3rar myndir og uppl\u00fdsingar um jakkana \u00e1 Vefnum):<\/font>
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\n\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
\"Silkitreyja<\/a> Silkijakki \u00ed Listasafninu \u00ed Cleveland, Ohio, Bandar\u00edkjunum.<\/font><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"N\u00e1ttreyja<\/a> \u00datsauma\u00f0ur silkiprj\u00f3na\u00f0ur jakki \u00e1 \u00dej\u00f3\u00f0minjasafninu \u00ed Osl\u00f3.<\/font><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Silkitreyja<\/a> \u00datprj\u00f3nu\u00f0 silkitreyja \u00e1 Nordiska museet \u00ed Stokkh\u00f3lmi.<\/font>
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Prj\u00f3n<\/a> Silkitreyja \u00e1 V&A safninu \u00ed London.<\/font><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"17.<\/a> \u00deessi rau\u00f0a silkitreyja er geymd \u00e1 Konunglega Ontario safninu \u00ed Kanada.\u00a0<\/font>
\nOg h\u00e9r er n\u00e6rmynd af munstrinu<\/a>.\u00a0<\/font><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"siklkijakkar<\/a> Silkiprj\u00f3na\u00f0ur kvenjakki \u00ed Museo Stibbert, Fl\u00f3rens, \u00cdtal\u00edu.<\/font><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
<\/a> Kvenjakki \u00ed Glasgow Museum, Skotlandi.<\/font><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
<\/a> Enn einn prj\u00f3na\u00f0i silkijakkinn \u00e1 V&A safninu \u00ed London.<\/font><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
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